Upgrade advice

What I do is, I generally put in the RAM and then if I want to upgrade, I sell it and buy a matching pair.
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That's what I do too. It may cost a little more but fewer worries and headaches.
 
It took me months to diagnose, because no test revealed errors...
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That is not uncommon. Sadly, NO software based RAM tester is conclusive. Even the best, MemTest86, may find no errors but the RAM still fails with real-world applications or when paired with other RAM. If these testers report errors (even just 1) the RAM is bad. But if no errors are reported, it still could be bad.

Conclusive RAM testing can only be done with expensive test equipment which is cost-prohibitive (and probably why those testers have been discontinued). So swapping in known good RAM is the next best (and much less expensive) thing.
 
I would say memtest86 failed me only tree times during my whole career still cannot be 100% trusted even thought it is really good tool.
There was specific series from Kingston memory massively failing I have no idea if they sorted.
At the moment I`m using Ballistix and I can say I`m really happy with it.
 
OK, back on topic...
I have successfully passed my last exam today and got paid, so I have the budget necessary for the upgrade. I'll call my supplier next week and see what he says.

Basically:

MBO: Gigabyte Z370 AORUS Gaming 5/Asus ROG Maximus X Hero and maybe, just maybe consider a cheaper option ASRock Z370 EXTREME4 (I've been using ASRock for 11 years now, I want this to be my dream build and that's why I'm so drawn towards the Hero.
RAM: 16GB DDR4 2x8GB, the cheaper, the better
CPU: i7 8700K
CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock 3
SATA SSD Samsung 850 EVO 500 GB

:)
 
16GB DDR4 2x8GB, the cheaper, the better
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I never go for the fastest and most expensive, but I always avoid the cheapest too. Yes RAM, even generic budget RAM tends to be very reliable (it is actually hard to find RAM that is not warrantied for life), but RAM from reputable brands, from my experience, more closely adhere to published specs. This means pairs have a better chance of being more closely matched and more importantly, in a couple years should you decide to add another 2 x 8GB, there will be a better chance they will play well with whatever you buy.

I don't see a case. Make sure you get one with lots of large (140mm or larger) fan support, and removable, washable air filters. Filters do not totally eliminate the need for interior cleaning as dust will still get in. But filters will greatly reduce the number of times you will need to break down your system to take outside for thorough cleaning.

I really like Fractal Design cases. Great fan support, excellent noise suppression, excellent design and build quality. The Define R4 (which I have in this system) also has great cable management features. If I were looking for great mid-tower case today, I would go for the R5, the R4's successor. The new R6 is out, but as the latest, it is still a bit pricy.

Investing in a quality case today will carry you through many years of upgrades. And with the conservative design for the Fractal Design cases, the looks and style will always be in style - if that matters to you. It does to me only in that I pay attention to what's on my monitors and I do not want to be distracted by my cases. I want them to sit discreetly and quietly out of the way, and these do just that. :) I also don't go for fancy case lighting for that reason too. Case lighting for me is just a distraction. And once the novelty wears off, a boring distraction at that.

I used to shun windowed cases as just a frivolous aesthetic feature. But today I would not buy a case without a side window. A side windows is a great "tool" for preventative maintenance. It is simple to just look inside and inspect for dust build up and to make sure fans are spinning. If your motherboard has status indicator LEDs, you can see them too, all without having to remove the side panel.

With your choice of coolers, you obviously will need a wide case. Not a problem with the R4 or the R5.

I also don't see a PSU. Don't try to trim pennies off the budget with a budget PSU. "Invest" in a quality PSU from a reputable maker. Since EVERYTHING inside your computer case relies on good, clean, stable power, make sure you give it to them. I like to say you wouldn't buy your new dream Porsche then fill it up with fuel at your corner Tobacco and Bait Shop. Unlike a car engine which can miss a beat and keep on running, digital electronics will come crashing down.

I recommend at least 80 PLUS Bronze but prefer "Gold" certified for even better efficiency across the full range of expected loads. I like EVGA PSUs.

I also don't see an OS license listed.
 
Hi, again, I'm not building a new PC, I'm UPGRADING, therefore the PSU, the HDDs, the GPU and the case remain the same. I most definitely agree on FD cases, they are awesome.

RAM - yes, of course I won't go for a no-name brand, I'll buy the cheapest reputable brand I can.

I'm not buying OS since I'll get the licence for free as I'm a student and have the right to get it.

One thing worries me though, will Dark Rock 3 fit my Silverstone Kublai KL04?
Apparently it can fit coolers up to 169mm height, and Dark Rock is 160mm.
 
softwaremaniac said:
Hi, again, I'm not building a new PC, I'm UPGRADING, therefore the PSU, the HDDs, the GPU and the case remain the same. I most definitely agree on FD cases, they are awesome.

RAM - yes, of course I won't go for a no-name brand, I'll buy the cheapest reputable brand I can.

I'm not buying OS since I'll get the licence for free as I'm a student and have the right to get it.

One thing worries me though, will Dark Rock 3 fit my Silverstone Kublai KL04?
Apparently it can fit coolers up to 169mm height, and Dark Rock is 160mm.
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How does your motherboard go into the case?

I once built a PC with a similarly enormous CPU cooler inside a case which just fitted the cooler (with mere millimeters to spare). Unfortunately, the case design was such that I was meant to screw the motherboard to a motherboard tray then slide the tray through the back of the case. Unfortunately, the cooler was so close to the limits of the case that although it would technically fit, I couldn't slide it past thr back strut of the case.

I ended up having to disassemble the cooler and motherboard assemble and then reassemble everything inside the case: motherboard tray rails, motherboard, CPU, CPU cooler - including so many tiny little screws I kept dropping and losing down dark nooks and crannies - inside the case because I couldn't slide it in through the back. It was an absolute nightmare. Took me hours of frustration to finally get there.

Then when the RAM failed, the cooler completely blocked access to the RAM sticks, so I couldn't even take some of the RAM sticks out to test individually. I had to disassemble absolutely everything all over again and rebuild the PC on my desk. And then put it all back in again.

0/10 would not recommend. I'm never getting a huge CPU cooler again, and certainly not on the limits of the case design.
 
Apparently it can fit coolers up to 169mm height, and Dark Rock is 160mm.
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Since it is a "side" firing cooler, the tight fit does not matter (assuming you don't encounter the problem Richard had). Just remember, however, that one of the reasons designers place so many heat generating components surrounding the CPU socket is so they too can take advantage of the air flow caused by "downward" firing OEM coolers. Side firing coolers, especially tall ones, may not provide any or sufficient cooling for those components. This is easily compensated for with good air flow through the case.

But, I had a client who's son put together a nice system that had a top rated side firing cooler. He ensured he properly applied good quality TIM, and it was a good case with great cooling. But the CPU was still running in the 60s°C at idle, and well above that when tasked. :(

It turned out they mounted the side firing cooler so it blew the CPU's heated air towards the front of the case, right into the incoming flow of the front mounted case fans. This collision of air currents created too much turbulence disrupting the desired front-to-back flow of cool air through the case. The result was too much heat building up inside the case instead of it being swept out with the flow. Simply reorienting the CPU cooler so it blew up and back towards a rear mounted case fan resulted in the low 30s° at idle and never above 65° when taxed. :)

Just something to think about when you are putting it together.

BTW, smart move, IMO to go with a good SSD. If you have not switched to SSDs yet, you will be amazed how much they improve over all system performance compared to hard drives. I will never go back to HDs.
 
Thanks for the heads-up Richard!

Hm... you are worrying me now... I want good temps with my 8700K because I always had them with my 2700K :) Recommend a cooler then please, if you don't think this is a good one :)

I have an SSD (250GB), but it's too small for me.
 
I see no problem with that cooler. From what I can find, your case does not have a motherboard tray. So your motherboard mounts directly to the case in the typical fashion. Trays are nice because you can mount the board to the tray, then just slide the tray into the case. Handy if you do a lot of motherboard swapping. But that tray takes up extra space that I don't see you need to worry about.
 
So, talked to my guy and we've agreed on everything but the cooler. He can't get it. He's offered to order a Noctua NH-D14, but I'm worried it might not fit...
I'll go with: [FONT=&quot]Crucial 8GB DDR4 2666 DRAM in Asus Maximus X Hero and i7 8700K[/FONT]
 
According to this, the cooler height is the same as the Dark Rock, 160mm. And according your case specs, it will support a 168mm cooler. 8mm may not seem like much but with side firing fans, I don't see a problem.
 
If nobody is lying about sizes, it should fit. "Should" is the operative word and without the case or cooler sitting in front of me on my bench, I, like you, can only hope the listed specs are correct. Considering that case has been around for 6 years, and the newer NH-D15 cooler for nearly 4 years. I am going to assume they would have corrected the published clearances by now if wrong.

Just noticed there seems to be 3 NH-D15 models. But the tallest seems to be 165mm. So I think you are safe.
 
I'm torn between the two, D14 is pricey as hell here (basically D15 price), and I really don't think I need 15.

Thank you for EVERYTHING!

Final:
ASUS ROG MAXIMUS X HERO
[FONT=&quot]Intel i7-8700K[/FONT]
Noctua NH-D14
[FONT=&quot]Crucial 2x8GB DDR4 2666 DRAM
[/FONT][FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]SAMSUNG PM961 256GB NVMe SSD [/FONT]
[/FONT]
 
I don't see the DH15 as having 3x different versions, though the ability to use a single or dual, 120 or 140mm fan(s) does indicate some flexibility in the fitted dimensions. NH-D15
Height (without fan)
160 mm
Width (without fan)
150 mm
Depth (without fan)
135 mm
Height (with fan)
165 mm
Width (with fan)
150 mm
Depth (with fan)
161 mm
Weight (without fan)
980 g
Weight (with fan/s)
1320 g

DH14 specs for comparison: NH-D14

Height (without fan)
160 mm
Width (without fan)
140 mm
Depth (without fan)
130 mm
Height (with fan)
160 mm
Width (with fan)
140 mm
Depth (with fan)
158 mm
Weight (without fan)
900 g
Weight (with fan/s)
1070/1240* g
 
Ah yes, so they do. :thumbsup2:

I'd still stick with the standard NH-D15; the AM4 kit's available FOC (for most of their coolers from the last 10 years) and there's no problem having a 'spare' 140mm CPU/case fan; it makes a far more versatile package.
 
Last minute change. I've decided to sell the thing and keep only the HDD/SSD + the GPU, so the final build is looking like this:

ASUS ROG MAXIMUS X HERO
Intel i7-8700K
Noctua NH-D14
Crucial 2x8GB DDR4 2666 DRAM
SAMSUNG PM961 256GB NVMe SSD
Corsair HX750
Fractal Design R6
 

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