Upgrade advice

You got that case just to make me jealous, huh? I see how you are. ;)

Understand that 750W PSU is way more than you need.

As seen here, even with exaggerating the demand by selecting 100% CPU utilization, 16 hours/day computer utilization and 8 hours/day gaming, 3 x 140mm case fans, and tossing in a Blu-Ray player, your load only comes up to 425W with a recommended minimum of 475W.

Even a 650W supply is a lot more than you need, with lots of wiggle room to spare.
 
Yup, that's right :grin1:
I couldn't sleep knowing that my new beautiful cooler might not fit :grin1:
I am aware of that, but I have a tendency to upgrade my system, who knows what I'll decide to change in the future. This PSU is 6 years old, I didn't want to risk with new components, so I decided to get a new one (unfortunately Prime was out of stock in Croatia).
And the price difference is practically non-existant, not that I care now that I'm way through the planned budget, but what the heck.
 
I understand the upgrade thought process and having enough PSU horsepower to support it. But then again, newer electronics, including computer components actually tend to consume less power than their predecessors. Of course if you might add a second graphics card, for example, instead of replacing the current one, that would significantly increase demands.

I have no doubts you will like that case. And Fractal Design fans are top notch too.
 
So, no objections to my build? It's a lot of money and I've put a lot of effort into research and I really hope I'll be very happy for the next five-ish years (with changing the GPU down the road). I hope the new Corsair lasts at least as this one.
 
It looks good to me.

Corsair PSUs have, sadly, turned into a mixed bag. It used to be if the PSU had the Corsair brand on it, you knew you were getting top quality. Then sadly, they started living off their name. They changed OEM suppliers for several of their series and models, cut back on quality and quality assurance testing and the result was an abnormal number of failures. Their upper series models still tend to be top quality but I recommend avoiding their lower and entry (V and C) level models. The HX is near the top so should be good.

It does not help that Corsair is not consistent with their labeling either.

For example, there are more than one HX750 models. Which one are you getting?

HX750 Platinum
HX750 Gold

Surprisingly, the more desirable Platinum certified is $20 cheaper. The Platinum model apparently replaced the Gold model, but there may still be the Gold models out there in the sales pipelines. I would insist on the Platinum version, though as I mentioned earlier, I like EVGA supplies.

Not sure if that cooler comes with a tube of decent TIM or has a thermal pad already applied. I personally don't like thermal pads. While they have much better thermal transfer qualities than those used many years ago, I still don't like the idea of how they work. They consist mostly of rapidly melting paraffin, with a formula that evaporates quickly, leaving the thermal interface materials behind. Sounds good. But...

It is still a very think pad of paraffin that provides virtually no thermal protection for the first few seconds. Then it melts and the pressure from the heat sink mounting mechanism squishes the paraffin out. Since a CPU can go from cold to overheated in just a few clock cycles, and with 3 billion+ cycles per second, I don't like not having immediate protection. I also don't like the thought that paraffin might squish out onto my CPU socket (even though I have never seen that happen).

So whenever I mount a new CPU or cooler, I always remove those pads and use a decent TIM - usually AS5 because it's around. But that's probably me just being a little anal.
 
softwaremaniac said:
I'm getting the Platinum one of course.
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I am just saying to make sure the retailer knows what you are expecting.

HyperHenry said:
If you want to go with Corsair I'd suggest the RM series.
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Actually, the HX series softwaremaniac is getting is the better choice. The HX line is next to the top in the Corsair lineup. The RM line is the next step down from the HX series and is geared towards the more budget conscience enthusiasts. They use different OEM suppliers and cheaper parts in the RM series than in the higher-end HX and top-end AX series. I am not saying to avoid RM supplies - but if looking for better quality, better regulation, better ripple suppression, better parts, the HX is the better choice.

An old article, but still applicable: Corsair RM vs HX vs AX Modular PSUs - What's the Difference and Which Should You Buy?

softwaremaniac said:
The machine should be assembled by Monday!
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I don't know how many systems you have assembled but what I often recommend to new builders and old hands alike is to visit now, your component's websites and download their user guides/installation manuals and become familiar with their peculiarities.

For example, there is no industry stand for how motherboards are labeled for the case front panel connectors. The motherboard I/O header might say PSW+ and PSW- while the case power switch wires may say SW+ and SW-. I have seen P+ for power switch + wire and PL+ for the power LED + wire. And R+ and R- for the reset switch (even though polarity does not matter for the reset or power switches - it does for LEDs, however).

If lucky, your motherboard will come with a neat little wire harness you connect the front panel wires to first outside the case where you can see what you are doing, then you plug the harness to the board. Knowing the location for the first SATA connector before you start assembling the computer will speed things up, as will knowing your case's cable management setup, drive bay removal, etc.

Oh BTW, check your accessories box that comes with the R6. It will have a neat little standoff adapter to insert the standoffs with your #2 Phillips screwdriver instead of having to worry about a hex nut driver. And remember, a common mistake is to insert more standoffs in the case than your motherboard needs - resulting in shorting out the motherboard. Not good. A standoff only goes where there is a corresponding motherboard mounting hole.

Knowing exactly which power connectors your graphics card needs, and the location of motherboard power connectors and fan headers, RAM channel pairs, etc., before assembly can speed things up too.
 
Ah, okay. You can still download the guides and become familiar with your components - if you want to know more about the ins and outs. Up to you.
 

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