[SOLVED] Going to build a PC

GA-990FX-Gaming rev 1.0 costs about $134 (amazon.com): CPU support list for GA-990FX-Gaming (rev. 1.0) (click)

Very quick searches on amazon.com:
  • fx9590 (about $200) Jun 2013
  • fx9370 (about $205) Jun 2013
  • fx8370 Wraith Cooler (about $185) sep 2014
  • fx8370e (about $197) sep 2014
  • fx8350 (about $150)
  • fx8320 (about $146)
  • fx8320e (about $130) sep 2014
  • fx8310 not found - sep 2014
  • fx8300 (about $122)
  • fx8150 (about $100, USED)
  • fx8140 not found
  • fx8120 (about $103, USED - about $340, NEW)

PSU:
  • Rosewill Capstone G750, 750W, 80+ GOLD, Semi Modular, 5 Year Warranty, costs about $70.
  • Rosewill Capstone G850, 850W, 80+ GOLD, Semi Modular, 5 Year Warranty, costs about $105.
  • Rosewill Capstone G1000, 1000W, 80+ GOLD, Semi Modular, 5 Year Warranty, costs about $95.
  • EVGA SuperNOVA 850 P2 (220-P2-0850-X1), 850W, 80+ PLATINUM, Fully Modular, 10 Year Warranty, costs about $135.
  • EVGA produced also at least 6 different models with 80+ gold certification (click to check).
  • Thermaltake TOUGHPOWER (PS-TPD-0750MPCGUS-1), 750W, 80+ GOLD, Semi Modular, costs about $93.
  • Thermaltake TOUGHPOWER (PS-TPD-0850MPCGUS-1), 850W, 80+ GOLD, Semi Modular, costs about $99.
  • Thermaltake TOUGHPOWER (PS-TPD-1000MPCGUS-1), 1000W, 80+ GOLD, Semi Modular, costs about $162.
 
Hi xilolee,
Im thinking the AMD FX-8370 for CPU and the Thermaltake TOUGHPOWER (PS-TPD-0750MPCGUS-1), 750W, 80+ GOLD, Semi Modular for the PSU.
Now whats available for video card? At the present im using a Nvidia G Force 210 and i know thats at the low end of video cards so i would like something abit better. Mind you i dont play games on my computers so i dont need a high end video card.
Tnaks,
Ghost
 
Mind you i dont play games on my computers so i dont need a high end video card.
Click to expand...
Then you don't need anywhere near 750W for a PSU. And while the PSU is arguably the most important purchase decision you will need to make with this build, it really should be the last decision, after you have decided on everything else and determine what you actually need for power, especially with the chosen graphics solution.

What will this computer be used for? There are very few programs that can take advantage of an 8-core processor. Even most games don't. Unless you will be doing extreme 3D CAD/CAE (designing bridges, skyscrapers, or aircraft carriers)or CGI work (Disney's next animated movie), most of that processor will be sitting around doing nothing. It is most likely just a lot more CPU than you need. The FX-4350 gives you a little bit faster base speed of 4.2GHz speed, but as a nice quad core processor for less than 1/2 the price. The money saved can go towards a better graphics solution, more RAM, better SSD or something else.

Back to the PSU. I highly recommend the use of a good PSU calculator instead guessing or arbitrarily picking a size. And IMO, the best out there is the eXtreme OuterVision PSU Calculator. Note that all PSU calculators typically pad the results because they sure don't want you to buy too small a PSU. But this calculator is much more flexible so it can be and is more conservative than the others - a good thing because it does not go overboard with it recommendations.

Using that more hungry FX-8370, bumping up CPU Utilization to 100%, adding 1 SSD, 1 HD and 1 Blu-ray drive, and 3 x 140mm case fans, increasing Computer utilization to 16 hours per day, and lastly, inserting the very power hungry GTX980Ti graphics card (which you do NOT need), you can see here that a good 600W PSU will be more than you need. Note by increasing the CPU and Computer utilization above the recommended defaults, that adds even more headroom to the results to allow plenty of room for possible future upgrades and additions. At the default settings, a decent 550W supply is plenty for you, even with that extreme graphics card.

Since you already said you will not be gaming, no way will you need such a power hungry graphics solution as the 980Ti. So a 550W supply will be more than a enough. I have the EVGA Supernova G2 550W in this system (i7 quad, 16GB RAM, 2 x SSD, Radeon R7 370 OC). The only problem I have with this PSU is the fan is so quiet, I cannot tell if it is spinning unless I stick my ear up to the back and "feel" for the air movement! :grin1:

Note that most people would be surprised to find out how little power their modern computers actually use. I have my computer, all my network gear and TWO 24" monitors plugged into my UPS which has a nice power status display panel and I am currently using just 123W (which includes both monitors!).

It would not hurt to get a 750W supply, but you would be wasting your money.
 
Hi all,
Digerati
Very interesting post and i agree with it 100%.
Now im wondering if i need the GA-990-Gaming mobo or something abit less?
Ghost
 
Ok i think this is going to go along way to help.
This is what im using at this moment: (found the paper work)
AMD Athlon 2 X4 3.0 GHZ CPU
Thermaltake Socket AM2, AM2+, AM3 CPU Cooler Fan
2 ADATA Premire Srs 4GB 240 Pin DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666)
Biostar A780L3C AMD 760G AM3 mATX Mobo
PNY Geforce 210 1GB video card
LG 24X SATA DVDRW-ROM
I would like to go the next step better on all of the above except the DVD-ROM which i think i can pull from the tower with the crashed system.
Ghost
 
Now im wondering if i need the GA-990-Gaming mobo or something abit less?
Click to expand...
Excellent point. So I ask again, what will this computer be used for? All we know is it will be running Linux, you don't game, and you want it to be quick.

If you will be using this computer to surf the Internet, check email, update Facebook, watch YouTube videos, create LibreOffice documents, you don't even need a separate graphics card. An AMD "APU" will serve your needs just fine. "APU" is what AMD calls their CPUs that have integrated graphics. For example, this AMD A10-7860K APU is true quad-core, 3.6/4.0GHz, 65W processor with integrated Radeon R7 graphics. Being 65W means it will save you money on energy and will generate less heat which means your fans can run slower, thus quieter. It comes with it own cooler and contrary to what many may want you to believe, OEM coolers today are very capable at keeping their CPUs properly cooled, quietly!

When used with an AMD APU compatible motherboard, such as the Gigabyte GA-F2A88XM-D3HP or ASRock A88M-G/3.1 populated with a big chunk of RAM (I recommend at least 8GB, 16GB would be better, even if a bit overkill), it will surely serve your needs well, and quickly. Especially with a SSD (SATA or M.2) in there too.

Yes, you can use your DVD drive from your old system.
 
Hi Digerati,
"If you will be using this computer to surf the Internet, check email, update Facebook, watch YouTube videos, create LibreOffice documents".
That covers all of what i do except Facebook;-)

" you don't even need a separate graphics card"
Well i dont care for all-in-one things. if one part goes bad i end up replacing all instead of just the bad item however i am willing to try it.

I would prefer to stay with Biostar but........
Yes i want 16Gb ram for sure.
Ghost
 
I sure am glad I suggested you post here, Ghost! I knew I wouldn't be any help, particularly since I thought it was your wife's computer that died.
 
Note with an APU, you can always add a graphics card and use that instead. And while I fully understand and, for the most part totally agree with your "all-in-one" concerns, it really does not apply to microprocessors.

What's a processor but an IC, or "Integrated" Circuit. You must remember, today's AMD and Intel processors are integrated devices already. It is not like adding a sound card to a motherboard. A processor is just a bunch of transistor gates. And it is how they program the gates to function that determines what they do. Modern CPUs now integrate memory managers "on die", for example where back in the day, the memory managers were separate devices on the motherboard. Over time, they get more reliable, not less.

The integration is better for several reasons. For one, fewer parts. Note a graphics card has 100s of parts that might fail - including a fan. Plus it must connect into a working slot and most cards today also require at least one, if not two separate power connections from the power supply - all potential points of failure. Of course, some of the parts on a graphics card are mounted on the motherboard, but not near as many.

Speed is a really big factor. The integrated component runs at full processor speed - that's a good thing. Communications is another big factor. Because communications between the devices is at full processor speed AND the bus (think, phone or data cable) in "on die" too and just a couple micrometers (at most) away, instead of miles (microscopically speaking) away across the motherboard, communication between the CPU and graphics processor and other integrated components is much faster too.

So an APU is not like an all-in-one printer/fax/copier/scanner where if the paper feed of the printer dies, your copier dies too. Microprocessors are extremely reliable devices.

I am NOT trying to talk you into an APU. Even though my Intel and board support integrated graphics, I use a graphics card too. I just want you to understand that an APU is a very viable option for your stated computer uses, and there is no reason to suspect an APU will be less reliable.

While Gigabyte is my preferred brand and they provide many to choose from, I've used Biostar in many builds. But I note Newegg has only 3 Biostar AMD boards to choose from. Do you have a preferred vendor?
 
Hi all,
Hi Corrine. Im learning what Mitch never told me and thats a good thing;-)).
It was my 'test' tower that crashed and i believe it was the processor fan that stopped cooling. As i told you i rebooted W7 after updates and went to change the laundry. When i got back to the computer there was nothing but a black screen. I tried to bootup but no light and no Bio beeps so its history.

Digerati,
Im willing to try a APU and see how it goes over time.

"The integration is better for several reasons. For one, fewer parts." Ya i like fewer parts myself for most things.
"Speed is a really big factor. The integrated component runs at full processor speed - that's a good thing. Communications is another big factor. Because communications between the devices is at full processor speed AND the bus (think, phone or data cable) in "on die" too and just a couple micrometers (at most) away, instead of miles (microscopically speaking) away across the motherboard, communication between the CPU and graphics processor and other integrated components is much faster too." Got it;-)

"I am NOT trying to talk you into an APU." Understand. Its experience speaking and im all for that.

"While Gigabyte is my preferred brand and they provide many to choose from, I've used Biostar in many builds. But I note Newegg has only 3 Biostar AMD boards to choose from. Do you have a preferred vendor?"
Oh i get parts from Amazon, Ebay or Tigerdirect. Ive bought and sold many items at Ebay but its more where the bargin is that directs me to buy from which one. Im open to try a different board so dont let that stand in the way;-).
Ghost
 
and i believe it was the processor fan that stopped cooling.
Click to expand...
If so, then the processor is probably still good. All CPUs are designed to shut down to protect themselves if overheated BEFORE any permanent damage occurs. A new cooler may be all you need.

I have a hard time recommending systems from scratch because there are 100s if not 1000s of offerings to choose from. This is where PCPartsPicker is handy. I don't mind helping folks decide between 2 or 3 they are considering, but starting from scratch is something I don't like doing, even for my own personal builds.

What I do is decide which CPU I want first. Then I find a motherboard that supports it, verifying that with the motherboard's QVL (qualified vendors list). As I said, I prefer Gigabyte but also like ASUS, ASRock and MSI too. Then I pick compatible RAM, again referring to the motherboard's QVL. You MUST pick a listed CPU, but there are too many RAM makers and models for board makers to test and verify them all. So you don't have to buy listed RAM but you should buy RAM with the same specs as listed RAM.

The good thing about RAM is it is extremely reliable, regardless the maker. That is why it is difficult to find RAM that is NOT warrantied for life. That said, I like Crucial, Corsair, Mushkin, and Kingston. I generally recommend buying all the RAM you think you will want right from the start. Upgrading to more later can be a challenge to find RAM that is compatible with the existing RAM. If you go with an DDR3 board, since DDR3 is being phased out by DDR4, in a few years, DDR3 may be hard to find (and expensive). So if you want 16GB, then get it now. Don't go for 8GB now and 8GB later.

I only use SSDs now and prefer Samsung.

A good case is almost as important as the power supply. A good case will be sturdy and "true" (exactly 90.0° bends in the sheet metal). It will have finished (typically rolled) sheet metal edges. If not finished, you will end up with bloody knuckles. A good case will offer lots of large (at least 120mm, preferably 140mm) case fan options. I like at least one in front and one in back. And I will never buy a case again that does not have removable, washable air filters. If you have kids and pets running around shedding dander and stirring up dust, frequent cleaning of heat trapping dust will be required. Washing air filters is a lot easier than breaking down the computer to lug outside for blasting with compressed air. Even with filters and no running around traffic stirring up dust, dust build up is still inevitable. Filters may mean lugging outside once in 3 or more years instead of every few months.

I don't go for fancy facades or flashy lights (though many users do). I prefer to pay attention to what's on my monitors and not be distracted by my cases. My cases sit on or near the floor so I want my front panel buttons and USB ports to be on top where I can see and reach them without getting on my hands and knees. Lately, I've been using Fractal Design cases and won't hesitate to recommend them. They meet all my requirements and the included fans are extremely quiet. The R5 Window is a great mid tower case.

A case with a side window is nice - not to gaze in wonder at the interior, but to inspect for dust buildup and spinning fans without having to open it up.
 
Hi Digerati,
"If so, then the processor is probably still good. All CPUs are designed to shut down to protect themselves if overheated BEFORE any permanent damage occurs. A new cooler may be all you need."
How would i check that?
 
You said the processor fan stopped cooling. The only way that could happen is if the fan stopped spinning. Assuming it is still plugged in and the motherboard's fan header is still providing power, then the fan failed and you just replace it. That said, an actual replacement fan is probably harder to find than just replacing the whole cooler (heat sink fan assembly).

I am also assuming you really meant the fan and not the whole cooler. If you meant the whole cooler and the fan still spins, then the only way the cooler would stop working is if it came loose, allowing insulating air to get in between the mating surfaces. If that is the case, then all you need to do is remove the cooler, thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of old TIM (Thermal Interface Material), apply a fresh, thin layer of new TIM and remount the cooler properly. Just make sure you unplug from the wall and touch bare metal of the case interior to discharge any static in your body before reaching in.
 
Hi Digerati,
Well ill be darned.
Pushed the power button on the "crashed tower" to start to see what happened and it fired up. Wouldnt do that before but only tried it twice that day.
looking at all the fans and all are running and the power light is on.
My brain just turned to mush.
Any ideas?
Ghost
 
Loose connection somewhere. Check all your power cables. Those front panel button switches frequently go bad. I just swap them out with the Reset button since most folks rarely use that. A failing power supply often takes a few tries to start too.
 
Wow, Ghost! :thud: With Digerati's suggestions, I'm sure you'll track down whatever gremlins caused the problem.
 
Digerati,
"Loose connection somewhere. Check all your power cables. Those front panel button switches frequently go bad."
Just did that and all are tight.

"I just swap them out with the Reset button since most folks rarely use that."
I will remember that tip.

"A failing power supply often takes a few tries to start too."
Well i might just get a new one just in case and if all goes according to Hoyle and i build a new tower later on ill have a new power supply to use.
Corrine,
Well for now ill get a new power supply and wait and see.

Thanks to all who helped, Digerati, xilolee, Tekno Venus, and of course Corrine;-D
Thanks,
Ghost
 
Well it did it again.
Same thing...did windows update and this time it requested a shutdown to install. Shut it down and now nothing.
So now looking for a new power supply which i assume i need a 500-60 watt 80 bronze power supply.
My power supply is at the top and air intake is at the bottom.
Any ideas?
Ghost
 
Isn't this the same machine that was really slow getting the November updates and then not getting December? (You have too many for me to keep track of.)
 

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