[SOLVED] ISATAP Adapter #2 Problems

[Corrine]

Don't worry about Dianne. I started working with her at another forum on a malware issue a couple months ago. She reads carefully and follows instructions step-by-step, providing feedback on her results.

 

[TheCyberMan]

Thanks for the information Corrine appreciated.

 

[dee_can]

You may have to worry about me Corrine. ; ) ha I'm sorry Fred and CyberMan, but I haven't gotten to any of your instructions yet because I ran into a little glitch earlier today. I thought I would be a diligent computer-user ; ) when I got into my router settings. I checked whether I could switch over to 'n' instead of 'g' and it seemed to be a no-go. So I thought while I was there I would change a few things around. I changed over to 'hidden wireless' which has never really worked before, but I thought I'd try again. Then I went back in and changed from TKIP to AES. When I got back to my laptop and checked Xirrus and my 'Connect to a network', I saw that a new insecure network called D-Link was there. This has happened before whenever I try to change to hidden, but I was able to fix it before by switching back to 'un-hidden'. It didn't fix this time by doing that, though, so I switched back to TKIP also. Still, the unsecure D-Link network was there.

I know it's my network because the address is mostly the same except for the last few numbers, plus I can connect to it with my password (although the warnings freaked me out a bit).

I ended up resetting the router, with my usual name, security settings, etc., but it didn't get rid of the unsecure network (so, I had two networks - one secure, one not). I finally just unplugged the router from the desktop and now I have no wireless setup at all (temporarily) (I'm using the desktop right now, wired into the modem). I keep checking 'Connect to a network', and the unsecure D-Link is still there - weird since I don't have my router set up? Any advice on how I get rid of it?

 

[Fred Garvin]

Dee, please don't get ahead of yourself here unless you're familiar with all the settings needed to setup your router. It's just going to create more work. Hiding your SSID does absolutely nothing for security, it just creates more problems for certain devices. Forget about Xirus for now. That was only needed to find the channels of interfering routers in your area. While I know everyone's trying to be helpful, it's important to stay on track to fix the root cause of your problem and not go in 5 different directions.

You're going to have to list your router model so I can look up the manual and find out what options you have. You can choose a name for your SSID and should be able to select an option to broadcast in G/N band. Use WPA2 with AES security and disable the pin # option if that's there.

 

[dee_can]

Fred, The model number of the D-Link router is WBR-1310. I apologize for making more work for you guys. D.

 

[dee_can]

I fixed it. I unplugged everything, including the modem, and set everything up from scratch again using the CD. The unsecure network is gone now. I'll try to get to the instructions by Fred and CyberMan tonight. I won't be online tomorrow until later in the day. I apologize for any inconvenience this caused. Thx.

 

[Fred Garvin]

If you have the router setup again to access the internet then you can adjust the settings on the Wireless Settings page for the router.
Enter a name for your wireless network
Put a check to Enable Auto Channel scan.
For the Mode Setting, choose G Only.
Under Security Mode select WPA 2 Personal
Set Cipher to Auto
Choose Personal for Personal/Enterprise
Create a password and enter it twice in the Pass Phrase section
Click Save Settings at top of page.

Go into Network and Sharing and click Manage wireless Networks on the left of the page. Right click on the name of your network that you previously used and delete it. Close that Window & go back to Network and Sharing then refresh your list of wireless networks. Refresh until you find the name of your new network then connect, enter pass phrase and save connection. If you get any error messages, post what they are.

If you successfully connected to your wireless network then disconnect your ethernet cable and use the computer. If you can use it for a good amount of time while you're right next to the router w/o losing a connection, then you've established that there is nothing wrong with your computer, settings or network adapter. If you get disconnected, then we can recheck your channel, security settings, etc.

You should have an idea of how frequently you would get disconnected before. If everything seems to be working in the basement then you can slowly start moving farther away from the router to different parts of the house, use the computer in a different location and see if you drop a signal. If you get this far you'll have a better idea of what kind of range you have with the router downstairs.

 

[dee_can]

I still haven't been able to follow most of the instructions from Fred or CyberMan, yet. Here's where I'm at. To make a long story short, turns out I didn't 'fix' the problem of the 2nd unsecure network (ie. I didn't get rid of it).

So, I unhooked the whole wireless network again and left just the desktop wired to the modem. I also deleted my secure network from my laptop. Then I checked the available networks, and my unsecure network was still there. I went to my router page, and in my wireless settings, was the unsecure network; but I wasn't unable to change anything and 'save settings' on the page since I wasn't connected to my router.

I hooked up the wireless network again, and then changed the settings as per Fred's latest instructions from post #67. Now I just have to create the network again on my laptop, and I'll see if the network debaucle is straightened out. I'm going to get to the other instructions (F's & CM's) when I get a chance.

Thought I'd mention that I had a chance to stop into the store where I got my laptop and router, and I spoke to someone knowledgeable (it seemed) in routers. I told him my model was a phased-out DLink (WBR-1310) and he told me that some routers do eventually wear out/become less powerful, and that getting a new router would be a good idea at some point. My thought, too, is that there isn't even a firmware upgrade for this one anymore (and I don't think I did any upgrades before it phased out, either), so I should probably get a new router. He recommended the Asus, or the DLink again. I'm leaning towards the Asus. That's all I have to report for now. Thanks very much for the settings instructions, Fred. I'm curious about the 'auto' for AES or TKIP, which one will used.

 

[Fred Garvin]

Dee, you set up your wireless network through the DLink Wireless settings page. Once you create a name for your network in the SSID field and add a Pass phrase (the password), you're done. There's nothing to set up in Windows. Just refresh the list of available wireless networks and connect.

Yes, you would benefit from a new router that supports the newer N band, since yours is G only. I believe your wireless card is N capable. Though routers don't "wear out" like a pair of sneakers. I haven't used any Asus routers so I can't comment on them. They all have their ups and downs, but stay away from Belkin. Firmware upgrades are to fix problems found in the router's software and the way it works. A lack of upgrades doesn't necessarily mean your router is no good, but it is outdated as compared to your network card.

AES & TKIP are different encryption algorithms your router and network card use to encrypt the data transmitted wirelessly. I believe setting the cipher to Auto lets your router negotiate with the network card and determine which method the card supports for data transmission. You can use AES, which is more secure, as long as the connection works. I'm really more interested in getting the wireless connection working at the moment. If you're really worried about wireless security or harboring top secret information on your laptop, use a long, complicated password that involves upper & lower case letters, characters, and numbers. Either way, you're more likely to hit the lottery than have someone crack your wireless password.

 

[dee_can]

Hi Fred, I got everything set up last night so I'm good. It was working great at first, then it began to disconnect. I think powering it off might be giving it a boost for a short period of time, then it gradually starts disconnecting again.

you would benefit from a new router that supports the newer N band, since yours is G only. I believe your wireless card is N capable. Though routers don't "wear out" like a pair of sneakers. I haven't used any Asus routers so I can't comment on them. They all have their ups and downs, but stay away from Belkin. Firmware upgrades are to fix problems found in the router's software and the way it works. A lack of upgrades doesn't necessarily mean your router is no good, but it is outdated as compared to your network card.

Thanks for the advice. I was looking on the Staples.ca website, and Linksys E1200 is getting very good reviews, some people are saying 'they can connect anywhere in the house' with it. I noticed some reviews for some DLink routers say that they disconnect quite a bit. So, I think I'll go with the Linksys. Then, I know for sure if it was interference, alone, or just a not-very-good router that was the trouble.

AES & TKIP are different encryption algorithms your router and network card use to encrypt the data transmitted wirelessly. I believe setting the cipher to Auto lets your router negotiate with the network card and determine which method the card supports for data transmission. You can use AES, which is more secure, as long as the connection works.

It auto-selected AES, and I find the connection works at least better. The auto channel picked Channel 1. Like I said, it worked really good at first, but it's gradually getting worse. Although the 'worse' I'm experiencing now is better than what it was before changing the settings.

If you're really worried about wireless security or harboring top secret information on your laptop, use a long, complicated password that involves upper & lower case letters, characters, and numbers. Either way, you're more likely to hit the lottery than have someone crack your wireless password.

lol about harbouring top secret info... who told you? :grin1:

 

[dee_can]

Here's the simple test. If you can stay connected while you're right next to your router, but get disconnected the farther you move away then it's a wireless signal or interference issue.

I don't know if I should post this since I said I'm getting a new router; but I guess if I have the same issue with the new router it would be useful to know:

Sitting (with wireless laptop) next to router in basement: Signal: -20 or better (couldn't read the number because it went through the top on the Xirrus graph). # of SSID's: 4; no disconnects.

Moved around the corner, up a few stairs (towards the upstairs floor), approx. 5-6 metres (15-18 ft) away from router: Signal: -30 to -40. # of SSID's: 6; no disconnects. (I only stayed on stairs a few minutes.)

Moved to top of the stairs, approx. 8 metres (24 feet) away from router: Signal -50. # of SSID's: 7; no disconnects(didn't sit there for a really long time, though, like I would if I was sitting at the computer, normally).

Moved to desk where I use laptop, daily, about 3 metres from top of stairs, so about 30 or so feet from router if I measure using the stairs. However, router is 6 or 7 metres away from me if I measure a direct line from desk on upstairs floor to router in basement. This is where I get quite a lot of disconnects. Signal: -40 to -50 right now. # of SSID's: 19 at the moment, but varies quite a bit. I disconnect probably every 5 or 10 minutes. D.

 

[dee_can]

1. After switching to 802.11n test your Laptop when it is close to the router and connect wirelessly for a good period of time does it disconnect?

If the answer is yes you need to replace the wireless adapter you can buy high power USB wireless adapters cheaply these days.

CyberMan, we've since found out that my router is 'g' only. I'm getting a new router, so I'm going to see if having a more current one will help with the disconnect issue. From what I'm reading, the 'n' router would probably give me better connectivity? You can correct me if I misunderstood this. I saw a display of wireless adapters at Staples (in Canada) and they were $150+. Maybe there are some less expensive ones in the store, though. Mostly everything in Canada is higher priced than in the States. So, I'm going to try the new-router-route :smile9: first.

2. Router in basement surrounded by concrete is going to degrade the signal as the antennas are omnidirectinal so the signal can go in all directions so it is probable that the signal is going thru the concrete walls at some point and vices versa from Laptop.

OK, thanks for explaining that.

3. Your xirrus signal shows at -53Dbm which is not great but not actually a weak signal. What i think and by the graph on xirrus which shows your signal degrade to -60Dbm is that your signal is fluctuating from stronger to a weaker signal and then back up. At some point i think your signal is degrading to -70Dbm or above and that is a weak signal and disconnects will occur and that is due to signal degredation with the router in the basement.

That seems to be true, CM. And I think the experiment I did tonight shows that, too.

Isatap device is used in transition from ipv4 to ipv6 by businesses and is not used should leave disabled.

No amount of enabling disabling is going to help with your issue IMO.

This is a wireless signal issue plain and simple.

I think so too. I guess naming my problem (what I thought might be) ISATAP Adapter #2 Problems' was a premature on my part, because I really didn't know. But, I'm glad I can rule it out. I appreciate your help CyberMan.

 

[Corrine]

Staples appears to be way overpriced. I switched my location in Bing to Canada and found this Amazon.ca listing for CDN$ 49.99.

http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B004XH1LTK/...e=395285&creativeASIN=B004XH1LTK&linkCode=asn

 

[Fred Garvin]

Dee, see if you can spend a little more time using the laptop while you're closer to the router. The optimal distance would be 5 to 10 feet away. It's the easiest way to confirm or rule out signal interference. Keep in mind, it's not just the actual linear distance away from the router, but also the surroundings, walls, etc as someone else was explaining.

You could also check out newegg.ca for a router or at least to read the reviews. Though it's easier to buy local if you need to return a dud.

 

[dee_can]

Corrine, thanks for the heads up about amazon.ca (and Fred, too, re: newegg.ca). I actually found one for the same price at Future Shop today, so I got it. I have it all set up and so far I've had no disconnections. I will let you all know if I do have any, though. Something weird... I don't know if this is from the new router, but it started after I hooked it up - the main desktop computer it's hooked up to has strange noises coming out of the speakers - like cards shuffling, and an occasional beep here and there. Could this be from the router, or just coincidence?

 

[dee_can]

Part II I think I know the problem, I moved the router away from the speakers, and I think the strange sounds have gone away. D.

 

[Fred Garvin]

Ya got me on that one... Buy a louder radio :lol:. Could be electrical interference if you have a lot of power cables in one spot or grouped in with your network wires. That's just a guess. If the desktop is close enough to the router, I'd use a network cable as a first preference anyway.

 

[dee_can]

Ya got me on that one... Buy a louder radio :lol:.

Fab. :grin1: I could also wear ear plugs to go with my tin foil hat. :grin1:

If the desktop is close enough to the router, I'd use a network cable as a first preference anyway.

I think I am already... but, not sure. As an 'aside', I don't think they could make the power cords that come with the router any shorter.

 

[Fred Garvin]

Maybe that tin foil hat is what's interfering with your reception! Try moving your speaker wires and power cord so they aren't touching any other wires. That's all I can think of.

 

[dee_can]

I moved the router completely away from the speakers, and I think it has solved the problem of the noise from the speakers. I have another question, I set the channel to auto, and I noticed sometimes it will show 1, 5; or 2, 10 (on Xirrus), for example. Do I want that? Or, should I select just one channel?

I've had zero disconnects since hooking up the new router. If it keeps up, I would say the old router was faulty, especially since the disconnects started from day one with the old DLink.